Gerani, Rethymno, Crete

Gerani or Gerani?

There are two Geranis in Crete. This is a fact well known to locals (a taxi driver mentioned it when we first arrived) but has clearly been missed by many folk uploading videos to YouTube. We were based at Gerani Rethymno which is about 7km from the city of Rethymno. The other Gerani is near Chania.

We found Gerani Rethymno ideally situated for visiting Heraklion (and Knossos) to the east, Chania to the west, and for crossing the mountains to reach the south coast. There'll be more about our travels in Crete in later posts.

Our first couple of days were spent getting to know our immediate surroundings, including Gerani village (up the hill from Camari Garden Apartments where we stayed) which is a real Cretan village despite its restaurants and tavernas.

Down the hill beyond Gerani Bridge there's a wonderful sheltered beach which is favoured by the locals. It has a real family atmosphere and a sandy area from which it is safe to swim. Next to the beach is Kamari Taverna with its free sunbeds, excellent seafood, and local wines and beers at sensible prices.

Gerani Rethymno is a very relaxing place to be.

Moulin Walk, Pitlochry, Perthshire

We love this walk – it's an easy one for a lazy Sunday afternoon and the scenery varies from woodland to more open views towards the mountains, including the famous Ben Vrackie. On 6th October these views were spectacular, with the trees taking on their autumn colours and the sun shining despite ominous clouds. A great day to have my video camera with me.

I'd advise you to buy the Pitlochry Path Network map from the Tourist Information Centre. It only costs a pound and includes seven other walks around Pitlochry. From the Tourist Information Centre the Moulin Walk starts just a couple of minutes down the road at the left turn-off just before the railway bridge.

This brings you around the Atholl Palace Hotel and through the woods by Kinnaird Burn. You can then visit the remains of Caisteal Dubh (Black Castle, circa 1326) en route to Moulin. The C12th Crusader's grave at Moulin Kirk is a "must see", and as you'll have worked up a thirst there's nowhere better to quench it than at the historic Moulin Hotel, which has its own wee brewery.

Knossos

You'll kick yourself afterwards if you visit Crete and don't get to Knossos.

Genie and I had done a little research before heading off to Crete in August and realised that if we wanted to get any footage of Knossos without lots of other tourists in the way we'd have to stay overnight in Heraklion and get to Knossus first thing in the morning, just as they opened the gates at 8:00 am.

Consequently on 10 September 2013 at 7:15 we found ourselves the only passengers to get on the bus at Heraklion. There's little traffic at that time of day, and the journey took less than 15 minutes. Time for a continental breakfast at Minotavros Cafe with freshly squeezed orange juice – just the thing to spark me up.

A coachload of visitors was already milling around when we arrived at the entrance to the site (a minute's walk from Minotavros Cafe). These poor souls continued to mill around for another 20 minutes, hindered as they were by their official guides who were determined to have their say before leading the way in. Genie and I headed in and split up, determined to get as much footage as we could before the inevitable invasion. For the first 40 minutes in Knossos we felt as if we had the place to ourselves.

I felt like a little kid. I was the first person that day to tread these paths and with a little stretch of the imagination I was the first person to tread these paths in thousands of years. The colours used in the restoration are those that the Minoans are thought to have used – no faded shades here when it comes to columns and wall panels. Replications of colourful murals of mythological beasts, hunting scenes and rituals decorate some of the walls. The originals can be found at the Archaeological Museum in Heraklion, which is well worth a visit.